Tonpei

Ordering a bowl of nikomi the moment you sit down and sipping a drink while the charcoal grill gets to work is one of the classic pleasures of a neighbourhood izakaya. Located in Narihira, Sumida Ward, Tonpei continues to serve the same comforting motsuyaki flavors that earned it a loyal following before its move from Higashikomagata. Tucking into braised offal alongside a chilled glass of Hoppy feels entirely natural here.

Skewers cooked over charcoal have an inviting sear and distinct textures. The chicken skin (kawa), grilled until crisp on the outside so the richness of the rendered fat comes through, is particularly well-regarded when requested well-done with salt. Alongside staples like the signature jumbo liver, the kitchen turns out grilled vegetables and small accompaniments such as traditional nukazuke rice-bran pickles, making it easy to build a varied spread.

The counter and tables suit solitary evening drinks just as well as unhurried meals with a few shared plates, and reservations can be arranged in advance. Note that payments are settled in cash.